Twin Turbo engine removal


The instructions given below are taken directly from Jims original post on engine removal. Jims engine was a single turbo and the one in this thread is a twin turbo. Most of it is very similar with some subtle differences.
This engine is currently standard other than a boost gauge fitment to vacuum tube number 11 and also an earthing kit.

We started with the downpipes from the turbo already removed due to trying to diagnose the problem in the belief that a turbo was the problem. The intercooler was also removed prior to this.

The intercooler has two bolts that are easily seen. These are in the rear corners from memory. Their are afurther four bolts underneath holding on the intakes. 

How to remove your scoob engine in nice, simple steps.

1) Don’t be afraid! The EJ20 engine looks like a complete nightmare to remove but in reality it’s really quite simple. Brute force is required at times and some bits will inevitably be difficult to remove or undo but those things aside it is an easy engine to remove/reinstall believe it or not.

2) Drain the oil & coolant from radiator/engine & intercooler system.
The drain plug  for the rad is on the bottom, on the drivers side.

3) Loosen the lower gearbox mount bolts and remove the lower bellhouse bolts. There are 2x 14mm lower bellhouse nuts to be removed, 4 x 14mm bolts to loosen on the gearbox crossmember (in order that the box can flex when lifting out/replacing the engine).
For the lower bellhousing bolts, ypu will need a knuckle joint and long extension bar for you socket. Even then, their is not a lot of space, although they are easily visable.

4) Disconnect the battery terminals & remove battery, also the windscreen washer bottle

5) Disconnect and relocate the electrical harness from the battery to the alternator out of the way.

6) Disconnect the engine harness from the rear pass corner of the motor. 3 large connectors.
This is slightly different. Most of the harness comes from the area around the windscreen washer bottle.

7) Disconnect the intake pipework from the turbo at whatever point is easiest. Disconnect any smaller breather style pipes or boost hoses etc that are necessary but be very careful to take not on exactly where they came from!

8) Remove the intercooler.

9) Remove the bolt from the gearbox droplink beneath the intercooler.

10) Unbolt the downpipe and other necessary bits from the turbo. 5 bolts/studs/nuts. Easier to access two of these after the intercooler has been removed. The lower outside nut is easier removed from beneath the car with a 14mm spanner or socket if you can get a drive on it. Expect anguish & tears when attempting to remove downpipe nuts!
I would agree here, scuffed knuckes are to be expected!
On the TT, you also have exhaust pipes that come around the front of the engine. Remove the heatshields on both sides and three bolts will release them from the engine. Two more bolts will release them from the up pipes to the turbos. None of these bolts are hard to get to.
You could do this once the engine is out but its just more mass and weight to lift. 

11) Disconnect the starter wire.

12) Disconnect the throttle cable from the throttle body.

13) Remove the 4 fuel pipes on top of the manifold. Be aware of residual pressure in these when removing them and make sure that no-one is standing in front of them with a lit cigar in their mouth at the point of removal just in case fuel sprays out….. Make sure also that you note which pipe goes where!
Only three on a tt. It would seem that one is in, one is out and the other a breather. 

14) Remove the radiator & fans/hoses.

15) Remove the 2 engine belts, and remove the power steering and Aircon bolts. One of the bottom aircon compressor bolts is a whore to remove but more irritating than complicated. Move the power steering pump and aircon compressor to the side making sure their pipes are clear from everything else.
The alternater needs to come out first. Its very straightforward. The power steering pump can be undone with three easy to get to bolts and moved to one side. The aircon is a nightmare. The pump sits in a cast iron frame bolted to the engine casing. You cannot get to one of these bolts without taking off the manifold. Likewise, you cannot get to one of the bolts holding the pump to the frame for the same reason. We decided to release the gas from the system before unbolting the aircon pipes from the pump. We released the gas from the Low pressure side. Its like an air valve on a tyre. Press it in and release. Beware, It gets very cold on the hand. We then released the pipework. 

16) Remove the upper bellhouse bolts. 2 x 14mm bolts.
You will also need to remove the starter motor fom the top nearside corner of the bellhousing. 

17) Now with the engine supported by your hoist/crane (attach chain/cable/rope around the inlet manifold for lifting), lift the engine a little so the bottom mount bolts clear the crossmember.  We found that both our engine mounts were actually split in two and will need replacing. Also support the box with a jack. Now comes the fun bit – splitting the engine/box. We had problems prising the engine away from the box and found that the clutch plate apparently would not come free from the spigot shaft of the box. Once you have the engine & box split by an inch or so DO NOT try to split them further, but unbolt the six 12mm bolts that hold the clutch pressure plate to the flywheel. You’ll need to turn the crank after undoing each one and it’s a bit fiddly (can be done either with a spanner through the top, or with a socket & extension via the hole behind the flywheel on the passenger side of the engine near the top) but once these are unbolted the engine & box should separate Don’t worry if you drop the clutch bolts down in between the engine/box as you can retrieve them once the engine is out.
Alternatively, On the nearside of the bellhousing, about half way down is a gold coloured disc with a 10mm allen key hole. Undo that and inside is a hole for a 6mm bolt. Screw one in and pull. You will pull out a shaft which will free the clutch mechanism, allowing you to separate the engine and box. The shaft is about 150mm long and is quite stiff. 

To separate the engine and box, still took a while and a lot of jacking the engine up and down. Each repetition freed it a little more. The main sticking points seemed to be the locating lugs in the engine side of the joint in the 3 oclock and 9 oclock positions. 
DO NOT be tempted to prise the two apart by wedging something in the gap. It would be easy to damage the faces. Just be patient.
We left the aircon radiator in situ and the engine came out to within about 45mm of that rad before we could lift it straight up.
I am not sure what the engine weighs but my hoist is rated at 175kg and it was straining.

18) That should just about be everything now, whip the engine out and relax!