Fit HRC 255 lph 340 Fuel Pump BH5 (& BE5?)

As promised, a detailed write up on fitting the HRC fuel pump which has a GB going at the moment.
Note: This guide is for the '340' model (Walbro GSS340 equivalent).  This is the correct model for the BH5 and BE5 models - you don't want the '342' as the filter bag will sit too deep for the leggy tank!  You DO need to specify this when ordering from HRC performance as he usually supplies 342 pumps for Subarus.
Thanks go to "Legacy4x4Turbo" for his original How To thread on fitting to a BG model which pointed me in the right direction.

First the "don'ts":
- Don't take your boot trim apart looking for the fuel pump hatch  dunce.gif , it's under the rear seat squabs.
- Don't leave your open 160 piece socket set leaning precariously on the back of a chair  whatever.gif

Here's what you get in the kit with the fuel pump:

- Pump
- Filter bag
- Wiring
- Foam rubber sleeve for the pump
- Rubber cap for the pump
- A piece of rubber tubing (not needed)
- Two jubilee clips (not needed)

You'll need the following tools:
- Phillips head screwdriver
- Pliers
- 8mm socket
- Small socket wrench with extender
- Cable ties
- knife/wire strippers (may not be needed - see step 13)
- Soldering iron (may not be needed - see step 13)
- Heatgun (may not be needed - see step 13)
- Heatshrink tubing (may not be needed - see step 13)

Optional:
- Grippy gloves

Ok, ready to start now.  Should take about an hour, quicker for those with more experience.
Make sure you are fairly low on fuel.  I think less than a 1/4 tank is advisable.  Leave the car standing as long as possible before starting the job.

1. Lift rear seat squabs on the driver's side.

2. Pull back the vinyl trim on the floor where the squab normally sits.  It'll look like this:


3. Unscrew the 4 phillips screws holding the oval plate in place.  Remove the plate and seal to reveal this:


4. Unplug the electrical connector.  Turn the engine over for a few seconds - I believe this helps draw the remaining fuel through the pipes.


5. Disconnect the 3 rubber hoses.  Two of them have clips which you need to pinch with one hand before pulling the hose free with the other as pictured.  A little fuel will probably come out when you do this.


6. Tuck those hoses and electrical connector out of the way.

7. Undo the 10*8mm bolts.  This is where your grippy gloves come in handy as these bolts are small and easy to drop.


8. Lift off the metal bracket.

9. Lift out the fuel pump assembly.  You will need to twist it a little so that it clears the edge of the hole - the bit that needs to be persuaded out is towards the back of the assembly.  Careful as the fuel float is also attached to this assembly and you don't want to break that!  This is what it all looks like:



10. Take the pump assembly away from the car to somewhere you can work on it.  There will be a fair amount of fuel in the unit so make sure you drain out what you can and have some newspaper underneath when working on it.

11. First you need to take the plastic cap off that's holding the factory pump in place - gently pry each tab out to release each side then slide it off like so;



12. Now pull the pump straight out (downwards), not too hard as the wiring plug is still attached.

13. Unplug the wiring.  Note that the plug that comes with the HRC pump looks almost identical to the factory one.  Despite this, I could not persuade the original plug to fit the new pump without using more force than I was comfortable with - you may have better luck?  Anyway, if you can't make it fit, you'll need to remove the original plug from the plastic housing, cut the wires and solder in the HRC wiring - make sure your heatshrink tubing is on the wires before splicing them and soldering!  Replace the spiral wrap.


14. Put the foam rubber sleeve on your new pump and fit the rubber cap over the intake end (it stretches around the end of the sleeve).  Remove the little blue rubber cap at the outlet end.  Plug in your wiring to the pump.  Slot the pump all the way home into the plastic housing.  Plug the wires in at the housing connection.


15. Attach the new filter bag with the long edge extending out the same way the original bag extended (towards the passenger side of the car). Make sure it clips on fully.

16. Put a couple of cable ties around the bit where the old plastic cap would've clipped in, pull them tight (with your pliers) and clip the excess off.


17. Now you're ready to re-fit.  Replace the whole unit in the same way as you removed it - make sure the fuel gauge float goes back in correctly - down the outside of the 'dish' the fuel pump assembly occupies.  You'll notice that the flat filter bag will sit right at the bottom of the 'dish', this is why I believe you would have problems with the angled bag supplied with the 342 kit.

18. Everything else is the reverse of removal.  I made sure to have this bolt already in the metal clamping bracket before replacing it as it's a bit fiddly to put it there once it's in place. 

Make sure all of the bolts are tightened up fully before replacing any of the fuel hoses, otherwise you won't be able to get to them.

19. That's it - fire her up and go fill her up!

Good luck!